Complexity and seamlessness are the hallmarks of this elegant, crisp and well-aged wine made from 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. From aromas of toasted walnut and ginger to tangy white-peach, almond and tamarind flavors, this layered and creamy-textured sparkler builds great interest and ends with a lingering finish.

Full-on autolysis steals the stage here with near-nutty tones and toasted bread well ahead of what is now but vestigial fruit. The wine is extremely rich yet is also splendidly balanced, and, while not at all concerned with fruity brightness at this point in its life, it is enlivened by boundless, very fine bubbles. It wears its years with a great deal of grace even if it is beginning to dry just a bit at the edges, and it is a first-rate example of a well-aged cuvée that is certain to satisfy discerning fans of the style.