Mézes Mály, 6 Puttonyos, Tokaj
Wine & Spirits
The 2016 vintage is the first since 2008 in which Royal Tokaji has released the full range of its aszú wines, including single-vineyard bottlings from its top parcels. The season's warm, humid summer allowed for ample botrytis to develop on the grapes the Royal Tokaji team then made multiple passes through the vineyards over the course of several weeks, picking the fruit a berry at a time to ensure only healthy botrytis. This bottling comes from one of the region's most hallowed vineyards, where the volcanic subsoil is covered with a deep layer of loess. the wine is as complex...
Mid gold colour. Honey, honeysuckle and candied apricots on the nose. Massive concentration with fleshy, sweet fruit on the palate. So youthful, with a sweeter, rounder mouthfeel than the other single-vineyard wines. Unctuous until the inevitable acidity cuts through, but this still finishes with a sweet kick. Honey, marmalade and blood orange. Superb!
The 2016 Mézes Mály Great First Growth Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos, which contains 180.9g/L residual sugar, is the one cuvée whose nose I could not quite work out at first. It needs a few minutes to really coalesce, eventually offering toffee apple, adhesive, lanolin and wood resin scents. Personally, I prefer the Betsek and then the Nyulászó on the nose. The harmonious palate is business as usual, featuring pure botrytized fruit, a superb bed of acidity, and orange peel, marmalade and a touch of lemon sherbet toward the persistent finish, where a welcome touch of bitterness lingers in the mouth.
From the ‘Great 1st growth’ Mézes Mály, this 2016 Aszú has a lime, struck match and earthy nose, backed with aromas of fresh apricot and white blossoms. Sweet spices and grapefruit zest are sprinkled on the pure, honeyed palate of raisin and dried apricot, with piercing acidity (10.7g/l) as the spine, complex and extremely long.”