Gosset's NV Brut Grand Millésime offers a terrific expression of the year in its toasted, open-knit personality. Pastry, orchard fruit, spice and light tropical accents all grace this translucent, alluring Champagne from Gosset. The 2012 has plenty of the energy Gosset fans will expect, but slightly softer contours that make the wine easy to drink and enjoy upon release.

A cool, ultra-pure and exceptionally pretty nose combines notes of green apple, floral, citrus peel and plenty of yeast influence. The equally elegant, pure and refined middle weight flavors are supported by a firm but fine mousse,all wrapped in a wonderfully long finish that is shaped by tangy citrus-tinged acidity. This is really lovely stuff that will need a few years of bottle aging to fully flesh out. Extremely promising.

A blend of two-thirds Chardonnay with one-third Pinot Noir, this beautifully balanced wine is poised between richness and intense crispness. Its apple and ripe pear fruits are now softening and beginning to meld into the taut texture. Still a little young, this wine will repay aging. Wait to drink it until 2022.

Jean-Pierre Mareigner made this wine and bottled it in 2013; Odilon de Varine, who took over as cellar master in 2016, disgorged the vintage in 2019. It’s two-to-one chardonnay to pinot noir, though the fruit ripeness of the pinot noir contributes more than its fair share of plum and red-blushed peach to the savory depths of flavor. As it opens, the brink yellow-apple flavors develop intensity, the pure flavor of fruit picked fresh, the incipient scent of apple blossoms. Tina Vaughn of The Simone described that fruit depth as “musky, delicious, sexy.”