Gold Label, Tokaj
Bright gold. Sweet and honeyed on the nose, noticeably more youthful and primary than the Blue Label. Almost grapey with hints of raisin and dried apricot. Thick and rich on entry before cutting acidity cleans the palate and prevents any cloying nature. Massive concentration, full of fleshy, dried stone fruits and acacia honey. Great density and length, finishing with acid rather than sugar
Wine & Spirits
2016 Tokaji Gold Label 6 Puttonyos Botrytis came early to Tokaj in 2016, after a wet summer, allowing Royal Tokaji to bottle several Aszú wines. This one, a barrel selection of wines from the company's best vineyards, feels like satin on the palate. It's dense with residual sugar, yet it's not overwhelmingly sweet; Furmint's fiery spice reins in the honeyed fruit while floral and herbal notes add lift. There's a youthful tension as well, a prickle of energy that runs through the wine, promising that there's more to come with time in the bottle.
The 2016 Gold Label Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos, which delivers 188g/L residual sugar, is slightly more limpid in the glass than the Blue Label. The aromatics are also a serious and tangible step up, with much more Aszú character coming through: dried honey, a light adhesive aroma, orange pith and quince explode from the glass. The palate is ripe and viscous on the entry, then very fine acidity imparts great tension, particularly toward the finish. There is an underlying salinity at play that keeps the saliva flowing, yet unlike some botrytized dessert wines, this does not feel heavy or cloying in
The 6 Puttonyos version displays more floral notes than the 5 Puttonyos sample; with more fresh apricot and citrus fruits on top of the waxy and honeyed undertone. The 188 g/l sugar gives the wine a luscious texture but by no means cloying – refreshing acidity (10.9 g/l) dances amongst dried apricot and layers of sweet spices, dried apricot and marmalade flavours, leading to a lingering finish. Similar to the [Red] Label, the Gold Label has been aged in 300-500 litre second or third use Hungarian barrels, but the grapes used are mainly from the producer’s own vineyards.”