Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru “Les Champeaux” — 2017
Champeaux is situated in what is still a wild place, with dry stone walls and stone cabottes, at the extreme northern end of Gevrey-Chambertin on a terrace at an altitude of 340 meters (1115 feet). One has the impression of finding oneself in a discrete, protected little field hidden away on the Côte d’Or. The vineyard is on the mid-slope of the hill, towards the northern end of Côte St-Jacques. The soil composition varies greatly heading down the slope, with whitish marl at the top, rock outcrops in the middle and more alluvial soils near the bottom, containing a mix of red and brown earth.
- Vineyards: Les Cazetiers
- Cultivation: Lutte raisonnée (“reasoned protection”)
- Viticulture: Two green harvests during the summer; sustainably farmed
- Size: 6.67 ha (16.5 acres)
- Vine Age: 55 years
- Elevation: 340 meters (1,115 feet)
- Orientation: East/northeast
- Density: 10,000 vines/ha
In January, the weather was cold yet dry, the sun’s rays gave us courage during the 2017 pruning season. Despite a vigorous winter and a rainfall deficit, the vineyards were able to restore their reserves for the upcoming growth phase. The early warm spring-like temperatures initiated a noticeable advance in the vineyards. Our plot of Champeaux began to flower towards the end of the month of May: the 2017 vintage promised to be early. The emerging grapes were numerous. This year, Richard and our team did several «green harvests» in order to reduce the number of clusters and to concentrate the quality.
Summer was punctuated by several heat waves, but luckily the few rain showers came at the most opportune moments, allowing the maturation to continue at a steady pace. The 10th of July was a close call, a hailstorm just barely missed our Clos de la Roche!
After a last tasting of the berries from the vines, the harvest date was set for the 6th of September beginning with our plot of Mazis-Chambertin. The clusters were loose, the grapes magnificent, and the stems had begun to turn brown… everything was present for a superb vintage.
The beautiful maturity encouraged a short vatting (18 days) with a very delicate extraction. The 80% of whole-clusters harvest highlighted the fruity expression in our wines. After racking, we held a tasting with our cooper, Stéphane Chassin, in order to decide the best type of heating for our casks. We decided on a very light toasting to help bring out the suitability of the vintage. After several months in the barrel, the result surpassed our hopes. The wines offer a delicate and airy nose composed of diverse fresh fruits. On the palate, the balance is perfect: the tannins are fine and satiny and the length is impressive. This is truly elegance!
Olivier Bernstein Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru “Les Champeaux” – 2017 – Wine Spectator – 93 Points
Charred oak and mint aromas lead off, masking the ripe cherry flavors that emerge on the palate. The tannins are firm and slightly sinewy in the balance, yet there is meatiness underneath. This should come around nicely and drink well in the medium term. Best from 2023 through 2038. 250 cases made, 54 cases imported.