Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru — 2017
Two different plots within this famous Grand Cru site, located mid-slope on the southern side of the vineyard. At the center of the slope, the soil is shallow, a depth of about 45 cm. (17 inches) with a greater proportion of clay than is found higher up on the slope, overlying broken limestone. These very old vines, 80 years in age, are situated in the midst of the prestigious Clos de la Bourgogne that was built by the Cistercian monks of the Abbey of Cîteaux and dates back to 1098.
- Vineyards: Clos de Vougeot
- Cultivation: Lutte raisonnée (“reasoned protection”)
- Viticulture: Two green harvests during the summer; sustainably farmed
- Vine Age: 80 years
- Density: 10,000 vines/ha
In January, the weather was cold yet dry, the sun’s rays gave us courage during the 2017 pruning season. Despite a vigorous winter and a rainfall deficit, the vineyards were able to restore their reserves for the upcoming growth phase. The early warm spring-like temperatures initiated a noticeable advance in the vineyards. Our plot of Champeaux began to flower towards the end of the month of May: the 2017 vintage promised to be early. The emerging grapes were numerous. This year, Richard and our team did several «green harvests» in order to reduce the number of clusters and to concentrate the quality.
Summer was punctuated by several heat waves, but luckily the few rain showers came at the most opportune moments, allowing the maturation to continue at a steady pace. The 10th of July was a close call, a hailstorm just barely missed our Clos de la Roche!
After a last tasting of the berries from the vines, the harvest date was set for the 6th of September beginning with our plot of Mazis-Chambertin. The clusters were loose, the grapes magnificent, and the stems had begun to turn brown… everything was present for a superb vintage.
The beautiful maturity encouraged a short vatting (18 days) with a very delicate extraction. The 80% of whole-clusters harvest highlighted the fruity expression in our wines. After racking, we held a tasting with our cooper, Stéphane Chassin, in order to decide the best type of heating for our casks. We decided on a very light toasting to help bring out the subtility of the vintage. After several months in the barrel, the result surpassed our hopes. The wines offer a delicate and airy nose composed of diverse fresh fruits. On the palate, the balance is perfect: the tannins are fine and satiny and the length is impressive. This is truly elegance!
Olivier Bernstein Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru – 2017 – Wine Spectator – 94 Points
Saturated with black cherry, blackberry, iron, earth and subtle black pepper aromas and flavors, this red exudes power and confidence, backed by dense yet well-integrated tannins. The finish echoes the concentrated fruit and vibrant profile. Best from 2023 through 2045. 400 cases made, 63 cases imported.