Clos de la Roche Grand Cru — 2016
Produced from 50-year-old vines in Clos de la Roche, one of the four Grands Crus of the Morey-Saint-Denis commune. 13.41 hectares (33 acres) is the total vineyard area of the Clos under production. Limestone dominates in the Clos de la Roche, where the soil is barely 30 cm. (12 inches) deep with few pebbles but with large boulders which give the climat its name.
- Vineyards: Clos de la Roche
- Cultivation: Lutte raisonnée (“reasoned protection”)
- Viticulture: Two green harvests during the summer; sustainably farmed
- Size: 13.41 ha (33 acres)
- Vine Age: 50 years
- Soil: Limestone
- Elevation: 250 meters (820 feet) elevation
- Exposure: East/southeast
- Density: 10,000 vines/ha
Despite a mild winter, 2016 was a relatively late vintage. The conditions in the vineyards were complicated and the 130 millimeters (5.12 inches) of rainfall in May didn’t make it any easier. The hard work put forth in the vineyards paid off, and the property was able to grow healthy and ripe grapes. Once again, the essential took place in the vineyards. Luck was on their side as well, because the frost episode, which ravaged a large part of Burgundy the morning of April 27, spared their vines, allowing them to have a harvest almost identical to 2015.
Summer only began toward mid-July, but the abundant sunshine combined with cool nights permitted Bernstein to slowly obtain, without intense heat, a beautiful phenolic maturity while preserving the acidity. This is everything a Pinot Noir loves about Burgundy.
Olivier Bernstein Clos de la Roche Grand Cru – 2016 – Wine Spectator – 96 Points
Boysenberry, plum, black cherry, earth and underbrush flavors are allied to an opulent texture and muscular structure in this beefy red. Impressive, but will need time for all the components to fall into place. Offers big tannic grip on the finish. Best from 2023 through 2047.
Olivier Bernstein Clos de la Roche Grand Cru – 2016 – Vinous – 93-95 Points
(the fruit Bernstein buys comes from lower down in this grand cru, where vine yields are always around 30 hectoliters per hectare, and thus he didn't notice "a clear reduction in production" in 2016): Bright, dark red. Musky raspberry, spicy underbrush and flowers on the expressive, terroir-driven nose. At once thick and sappy, conveying outstanding subtle intensity...