Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru “Les Lavrottes” – 2016
This vineyard is situated within Chambolle-Musigny, just beneath the Grand Cru site of Bonnes-Mares. The name of this climat comes from the fact that there was once a lava quarry here, now filled in. There is a shallow covering of soil overlying hard rock; however, crevices in the hard Jurassic limestone allow the roots to reach deep within the sub-soil. Boulders and gravel ensure good drainage. Bernstein has less than one hectare under production of 15-year-old vines. He is, to our knowledge, the only one to bottle this climat under its lieu-dit name, hence it is in some ways his “monopole” in Chambolle-Musigny.
- Cultivation: Lutte raisonnée (“reasoned protection”)
- Viticulture: Two green harvests during the summer; sustainably farmed
- Size: Less than 1 ha
- Vine Age: 15 years
- Density: 10,000 vines/ha
Despite a mild winter, 2016 was a relatively late vintage. The conditions in the vineyards were complicated and the 130 millimeters (5.12 inches) of rainfall in May didn’t make it any easier. The hard work put forth in the vineyards paid off, and the property was able to grow healthy and ripe grapes. Once again, the essential took place in the vineyards. Luck was on their side as well, because the frost episode, which ravaged a large part of Burgundy the morning of April 27, spared their vines, allowing them to have a harvest almost identical to 2015.
Summer only began toward mid-July, but the abundant sunshine combined with cool nights permitted Bernstein to slowly obtain, without intense heat, a beautiful phenolic maturity while preserving the acidity. This is everything a Pinot Noir loves about Burgundy.
Olivier Bernstein Chambolle-Musigny Les Lavrottes 1er Cru – 2016 – Vinous – 91-93 Points
(no frost here): Healthy dark red. Aromas of raspberry, rose petal and musky espresso convey a noble reduction. Then pure, juicy and penetrating on the palate, boasting terrific inner-mouth floral precision and lift. Finishes firmly tannic but not at all dry, with a piquant hint of black pepper.