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Food & Wine: 4 Must-Visit Winemakers of Barolo and Barbaresco – Featuring Elvio Cogno

Food & Wine’s Ethan Fixell highlights “four wineries not only represent some of the best Piedmont has to offer—they also help illustrate the greatest differences between Barolo and Barbaresco, and the range of unique qualities one can find within each…” and we’re excited that Elvio Cogno is representing Barolo!

In 1964, Marcarini winemaker Elvio Cogno produced one of the first cru Barolos, from the Brunate vineyard. In 1990, he would break away and found his own namesake winery in the famed Ravera cru, focusing on single vineyard and single clone wines—a unique approach in the region.

Today, by planting each of their individual vineyards with one isolated clone of Nebbiolo (either Lampia, Rosé, or Michet), Cogno’s equally skilled daughter and son-in-law, Nadia Cogno and Valter Fissore, produce wines with incredibly focused profiles. To explore all of their unique nuances with one of the warmest couples in Barolo should be on any bucket list.

The winery is also notable for restoring the semi-aromatic Nascetta grape—one of Barolo’s only indigenous white varieties. First produced in 1994, Anas-Cëttawould establish a new official DOC in Cogno’s home of Novello: Langhe Nascetta. Though fresh and bright up front, it has a somewhat savory finish, showing a lot like Riesling as it ages. Produced with no oak or malolactic fermentation, Cogno’s version is an authentic, simple expression of the variety.”

 

Ethan Fixell, November 9, 2018
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Food & Wine: 4 Must-Visit Winemakers of Barolo and Barbaresco – Featuring Elvio Cogno