Beyond sauvignon blancs in New Zealand
“…By itself, chardonnay is the ultimate blank slate grape; where and how it grows and who makes it into wine are the styluses that carve personality into it. As Michael Brajkovich, winemaker for Kumeu River Wines, puts it, ‘Chardonnay is the only white variety to deliver complexity and texture based on its various terrains.’
“New Zealand is a fine classroom in which to learn this lesson. Its chardonnays are often compared to those from another cool climate chardonnay star, Burgundy, but I would submit that they also share that region’s range of styles as well. The proportion of New Zealand wine that is chardonnay is 9 percent.”
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