A puzzling Pinot year in Oregon
“After Oregon’s amazing 2008 vintage, the prospects, and expectations, for 2009 were high indeed – doubly so because after a light 2007 crop, Oregon’s vintners were a bit touchy about their fate. Would nature deliver once again?
Despite the recent fretting that Oregon is abandoning its longtime role as the small-scale counterpoint to California’s Pinot largesse, this vintage shows otherwise. Indeed, it is a reminder that in its inconsistencies, Oregon shows its true potential for greatness in Pinot Noir
2009 WillaKenzie Estate Estate Cuvee Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($28, 14.4%): Bernard Lacroute’s longtime property near Yamhill turned out an unrepentantly weightier, firm effort in its estate blend. It exults in big, rich fruit, with kirsch, chalk and forest floor accents to robust cherry flavors.”