Royal Tokaji
Overview
Royal Tokaji was founded in 1989 by well-known author Hugh Johnson and a small group of investors, who were inspired after the fall of Communism to restore and preserve Hungary’s precious wine legacy. Royal Tokaji’s ensuing success can largely be contributed to its unique combination of first and second growth vineyards, including one of Hungary’s two great first growths: Mézes Mály. The winery produces several exceptional wines, including four single-vineyard Aszú wines. Its Aszú wines are crafted using traditional gönci casks and aged in the winery’s 13th-century underground cellars. Richness with vibrant acidity is the hallmark of all the Royal Tokaji wines.
Royal Lineage and Renaissance
The first Tokaji Aszú wine was created in the 1600s perhaps by accident — a harvest delayed by threat of enemy invasion. In 1700, Tokaj became the first European region to have its vineyards classified — its uniquely varied terroirs and climates rated “primae classis, secundae classis, tertius classis,” or “first growth, second growth, third growth,” by Prince Rakoczi II of Transylvania. This classification system is still used in Hungary today.
Quality production ended with the Communist takeover of Hungarian winemaking. Aszú grapes were used for mass production in factories, with vineyard distinctions lost in giant tanks. Tokaj’s renaissance began after the collapse of communism with establishment of Royal Tokaji.
The Tokaj Region
Situated along the southern slopes of the Zemplén Mountains, Tokaj is characterized by late springs and short growing seasons. The average temperatures are generally cool, with long, sunny summers and dry autumns.
Tokaj’s soil is largely clay or loess with a volcanic substratum; vines are approximately 20 years old. The meeting of the Tisza and Bodrog rivers in Tokaj creates a mist similar to that of the fog in Sauternes. The mist encourages “botrytis cinerea,” or “noble rot,” which dries and shrivels the Furmint, Hárslevelü and Muscat grape varieties that comprise Tokaji wines, and concentrates the sugars. Grapes that are infected with botrytis are commonly referred to by the Hungarian term aszú.
Grape Varieties
By law, only white grape varieties are allowed to be planted in Tokaj. There are three primary white grapes grown here and used by Royal Tokaji:
Furmint (FOOR’-mint): 70 percent of the regions plantings; high levels of tartaric acid, thin skin susceptible to botrytis
Hárslevelú (HARSH’-leh-veh-LOO’): 20 percent of plantings; less susceptible to botrytis, but rich in sugar and aromas; “Hárslevelü” translates to “linden leaf”
Muscat de Lunel: 10 percent of plantings; the most difficult grape to grow, but an important blending grape
Pedigree Vineyards
Royal Tokaji owns a unique combination of first and second growth vineyards that have always been privately owned, including one of the two great first growths: Mézes Mály. At one time, first growth vineyards Betsek, Szt. Tamás and Nyulászó were owned by Prince Rakoczi I. His vineyards were sold in the late 1660s to save the prince, who was involved in a conspiracy that would have otherwise cost him his life. His son, Prince Rakoczi II, was able to buy back the prized land in the 1700s. Three centuries later, these vineyards continue to be highly valued.
The Winery
Royal Tokaji’s winery is located on the main square in the village of Mád, about 240 kilometers (150 miles) northeast of Budapest in the Tokaj wine region. In honor of Royal Tokaji’s 20th anniversary, the winery was renovated entirely.
Designed by the leading Hungarian architect Csaba Bodonyi, it accommodates more than 1,000 oak barrels for aging and has a stainless steel tank capacity of 2,700 hectoliters. It has already been acclaimed as the most important in the Tokaji region due to its earth-friendly contributions, which range from a green roof to solar panels.
The Wines
Royal Tokaj produces several exceptional wines, including:
Furmint: 100 percent Furmint; a dry, white wine
Mád Cuvée: Late Harvest
Red Label: Second growth, 5 puttonyos
Betsek (bet-SHEK): Single vineyard, first growth, 6 puttonyos
Nyulászó (NEW-lah-zoh): Single vineyard, first growth, 6 puttonyos
Szt. Tamás (SAINT tah-mahsh): Single vineyard, first growth, 6 puttonyos
Mézes Mály (MEES-sesh my): Single vineyard, great first growth, 6 puttonyos
Aszú Essencia (ah-SOO ehs-SIGH-see-uh)
Essencia
Serving Suggestions
Royal Tokaji’s Aszú wines are wonderful on their own as an apéritif or digestif, with cigars and petits fours. Given their bright acidity, these wines also pair well with a wide variety of foods, including foie gras, fruit tarts, chocolate desserts and a variety of cheeses. Serve slightly chilled at 12 to 15 degrees Celsius (54 to 59 degrees Fahrenheit) in a small port glass or a glass of similar size.
