Kumeu River
History
Emigrants from Dalmatia
In 1938, at the age of 12, Maté Brajkovich emigrated with his mother and two sisters from Dalmatia in southwestern Croatia to New Zealand. His father was there already, working in the northern Kauri gum fields. After three years of public education during which time he learned English, Maté left school and joined his father digging Kauri gum. Two years later, the family moved to a dairy farm, then to West Auckland where they worked in the orchards and vineyards. By 1944, they had saved enough money to purchase land in Kumeu.
Becoming Winemakers
Although there was a small vineyard already in production on their new property, the main activity was mixed farming; so for the first few years, the family raised fruits, vegetables and dairy cows. In Dalmatia, many families made wine for their own use from their own vines; it seemed only natural to do the same in New Zealand. The land was so well-suited for wine grapes that wine production in Kumeu far exceeded home consumption, and Maté started making wine commercially. He made dry red table wine in the style that was preferred for everyday drinking back in Europe, which soon gained popularity among the literary and university circles of Auckland.
A Family Legacy Begins
Maté married Melba Sutich in 1958, and as the vineyard and winery expanded, so did his family. Michael was born in 1960, followed by Marijana in 1961, Milan in 1963 and Paul in 1967.
Discoveries Abroad
Michael studied winemaking and viticulture at Roseworthy College in South Australia, earning a bachelor’s degree in oenology in 1981. In 1983, he went on a tour of the wine regions of California, Oregon, Washington and Italy. Michael then spent several months in France working in Bordeaux, before visiting Burgundy, Champagne, Alsace, and the Rhône and Loire valleys. This tour was very important in molding much of Michael’s winemaking philosophy. On his return to New Zealand, Michael was able to adapt many of the successful techniques he had observed and put them into practice at Kumeu River. The result has been a series of wines that are innovative, distinctive and unique in both style and quality for New Zealand. In fact, his Chardonnay is often compared to white Burgundy.
Kumeu River Wines
The Kumeu River label was introduced in 1984. The first release was the 1983 Kumeu River Merlot—an award winner from the start.
In 1990, Maté Brajkovich reworked the land and planted a new vineyard of Chardonnay vines on the site of the original vineyard purchased in 1944. The first grapes from this vineyard were harvested in March 1993, the year after Maté succumbed to a long illness. The six-acre vineyard was named Maté’s Vineyard in his honor, and Maté’s Chardonnay was released the following year to coincide with the celebration of the family’s 50th anniversary in Kumeu.
Today, the wines are made with Kumeu grapes, including Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Merlot, grown on 28 hectares (69 acres) of estate vineyards, as well as with grapes from 16 hectares (39.5 acres) leased from local growers. Also, in 2004, Kumeu River began working with 5 hectares (12.4 acres) of Sauvignon Blanc from a grower in Marlborough.
Next Generation Assumes the Reins
Michael officially became winemaker at Kumeu River in 1982. In 1989, he became the first Master of Wine in New Zealand. In addition to making wine for Kumeu River and serving on behalf of the Institute of Masters of Wine, Michael is also chairman of the International Screwcap Initiative.
Marijana graduated from Auckland University with a business degree. After a career in the hospitality industry, she returned to Kumeu River to assist Melba in the winery’s financial management.
Milan earned a bachelor’s degree in chemical engineering from Auckland University in 1985 and, after a year in the brewing and dairy industries, returned home to join the family business as engineer and vineyard manager.
Paul, the youngest son, graduated from Auckland University in 1990 with a marketing degree and, following a short stint in the British wine trade, returned to the family firm that same year to take over the sales and marketing of Kumeu River wines.
